Whiskey Golf!

Unfortunately, that is not the name of a fun Canadian version of golfing. It is the name of a torpedo test range in the Strait of Georgia near Nanaimo, B.C. A torpedo testing range is definitely not an area you want (or are permitted) to pass through. It’s well marked on the charts though so we could easily navigate around it.

After a quick stop in Nanaimo for supplies and Nanaimo Bars, we transited past Whiskey Golf, and made our way to Hornby Island. We soon called it the Canadian Caribbean. We met some nice Canadians on a tiny shell beach on Ruxton Island a few days prior and they let us know about Hornby. I am SO glad we met them. Hornby was a like a tropical vacation. We anchored in Tribune Bay and took a quick dinghy ride to shore on the massive white sandy beach. The sand was almost as fine as powdered sugar and the aquamarine water was a cool and refreshing refuge from the hot sun. There were sand dollars everywhere, and not just the dried out white shell. Living sand dollars were all around us. One morning we took ourselves on a snorkel tour and found lots of sea stars, schools of small perch, crabs, loads of sculpins, and a massive oyster bed. We stayed a few days in the Canadian Caribbean soaking it up before continuing north. On our journey to Quadra Island at the north end of the Strait of Georgia we were treated twice to humpback whales! They were swimming near the surface and we got to watch their spouts and tails flipping along.

The next few days were a bit daunting. We decided to continue north right away to get through Seymour Narrows and the Johnstone Strait during the neap tide (quarter moon phase). Seymour Narrows can have currents racing along at up to 16 knots during a spring tide (full moon or new moon phases), and strong currents fight against opposing winds in Johnstone Strait to create massive waves, countercurrents, eddies, whirlpools, and riptides. Both of us read a lot about potential conditions and developed a healthy respect for what we were getting ourselves into. Choosing to go through the area during the neap tide, and transiting certain parts during daily slack tides, kept conditions calmer and manageable for us. We made it through fine, and are thankful to be on the other side.

We spent the past 5 days in the Broughtons. It’s a beautiful region with small islands, little bays, marine preserves, mountains, and deep water. Certain parts of the Broughtons are fjords with towering granite cliffs and inlets deeper than 1000 feet. I dropped the crab pot twice up here and managed to catch 4 moon jellyfish and 1 kelp crab (which are not good eating because they have very skiny little legs and claws). All catch and release so far. Ocean – 2; Kris – hungry.

In Kwatsi Bay we were greeted by a pod of pacific white-sided dolphins on our way in. The water was crystal clear in the bay and we could see at least 40 feet down from the surface. The bay was also full of moon jellyfish. Their sizes ranged from tiny to about 6-inches in diameter. They are somewhere between translucent and opaque white, and they do not sting. At anchor, we could hear the soft flow of a waterfall hidden in the forest on the nearby shore. Our first morning waking up in Kwatsi Bay, I was preparing my kayak on the deck and heard a loud noise from across the bay. I could see what at first looked like large wake from a boat. I soon realized it was the dolphins again! I quickly called Mark to join me on deck. The pod was speeding through the bay in what appeared to be hunting activity. They would move together at a fast pace in one direction right up to the waters edge, then on a dime chase back the other way. From our view, it looked like they were corralling fish. The came right up around and under our boat. Later that day we took a long dinghy ride to Watson Bay to visit a 1,000-year old cedar tree. It was a sight to see, and our first time stepping on land in 5 days. Upon our return to Kwatsi Bay, the dolphins were still playing around the outer area of the bay. They swam right along and under our dinghy as we made our way home.

We left Kwatsi Bay and started heading south to the Broughton Archipelago Marine Provincial Park. (We’ll be heading south for the next 8 months or so!) We went diving in Waddington Bay and found classic summer conditions. The water temperature was a balmy 51 F, and the visibility was like pea soup. It was a nice dive and fun to explore right off our boat. We saw many sea stars, pricklebacks, crabs, one nudibranch, burrowing sea cucumbers, sculpins, and other familiar creatures. We also used our electric-powered compressor, running off the battery bank and solar, to refill our tanks after diving. It’s so great to get that system up and operational so we can continue with our plans of diving around the world. The Broughtons have been a fantastic place to visit. Now we’re moving along to a few more stops for culture and diving before picking up 2 friends (aka crew members) in Port Hardy, B.C. at the end of the month.